Welcome to Zemun, a town within a city. For the locals (Serb. Zemunci) Zemun is a town in its own right, while Belgraders consider it a part of Belgrade. Zemun is actually one of Belgrade’s most culturally significant and urbane municipalities. The atmosphere itself is defined by its turbulent past. Until 19th century, Zemun was a town in the Austrian Empire (Habsburg Monarchy) while Belgrade was under the Ottomans, which explains why cultural differences are visible even today between the two. Our pocket-sized insider’s guide takes you to the most interesting places that recently popped up.
SUPERMARKET TALAS ZEMUN
Talas is one of the restaurants of Supermarket chain. It is located on the Danube quay and it represents a gem of local gastronomical scene. The design has an abundance of creative details, in the yard as well as indoors. On sunny days you can sit on the riverfront watching the sunset and sipping icy cocktails. Food selection ranges from seafood, salads and delicious sandwiches to homemade and international dishes.
Salon 5 is already an establishment. It is a restaurant that moved the local gastronomical scene one step up. It is a mix of superb service and delicious predominantly Italian specialties. Cozy and unpretentious interior creates a pleasurable atmosphere. It’s visited by different folk, from ambassadors and tourists to business people and local artsy crowd.
One of Rakia bars, a local chain of bars, is located in Zemun downtown. Just like other Rakia bars this one also offers small shots of Serbian brandy called rakia, but also a variety of new cocktails made of rakia. This is a place specialized in serving this Serbian beverage, offering all types of rakia, from Dunjevaca (quince rakia) and Medovaca (honey rakia) to the more exotic varieties.
GALERIJA COFEE & RESTAURANT
This place has thrived in Belgrade for ages and doesn’t need any special introduction. You won’t find it on Facebook or on advertised touristy maps. It’s a small rock house which houses a restaurant with a small yard on the hill overlooking the Danube river. Prices are affordable and you can eat home made pasta, drink some local or Italian wine and try some of the most delicious desserts you have ever tasted in your life. Enjoy the real atmosphere of Zemun!
CRVENI RAK PUB
Crveni rak is an unavoidable place for locals. It is situated in the centre of Zemun and definitely represents a must visit spot. Here you can expect good music, lots of smoke, variety of draft and bottled beer and a chat with friendly locals.
Just around the corner from Rak pub there stands the famous Rusmir. This cool and unpretentious place located in a local basement is known for the best sausages in town. Jump in, order a few types and have a glass of beer or simply a scotch and feel like a genuine Zemunac!
American-like restaurant situated in a true symbol of socialist modern architecture, hotel Yugoslavia, offers an appealing, but also kinda witty concept of dinning. Here you can eat one of the best burgers in town, try the spiciest ketchup ever, and drink beer. Takeaway is possible too.
Translation support by Queen Victoria Education & Translations
Dragana Kostica is the Belgrade-based editor in chief and founder of Still in Belgrade art, culture and club scene magazine. She holds a Master of Arts in Cultural Policy and Management in Arts (MA of Arts) and a Bachelor degree in Archaeology.