Belgrade’s nighttime economy has long been a defining element of the city’s cultural and social identity. This thriving sector, encompassing nightlife, dining, hospitality, and creative spaces, has shaped the capital’s character and contributed significantly to its urban development. Yet, recent shifts in city policies and urban transformations have raised concerns about the future of this vibrant scene.
According to URBACT, the nighttime economy is increasingly recognized as a key driver of sustainable urban growth at both European and global levels. Between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m., cities come alive with a diverse range of activities, spanning culture, leisure, retail, transport, and hospitality. Less visible but equally vital sectors such as health care, waste management, and environmental services also operate around the clock, supporting the core activities of a city’s nightlife economy.
The Rise of “Splav Culture”
Belgrade’s unique “splav culture” emerged in the early 1990s during the breakup of Yugoslavia. Traditionally, “splavs” (rafts) were family retreats on the Sava and Danube rivers—spaces for relaxation, swimming, and barbecues during the summer months. However, this riverside culture evolved. Rafts took on a commercial character, transforming into floating nightclubs and restaurants. Over the past three decades, these venues have become iconic symbols of Belgrade’s nightlife economy, showcasing a wide range of music genres, from turbo-folk and gypsy music to techno, house, drum and bass, and jazz.
These river clubs, positioned at the confluence of the Sava and Danube near the city center, have become cultural melting pots where diverse crowds gather for entertainment. Yet, after 30 years, the city has entered a new phase of nightlife regulation.
Crackdown on River Clubs: Environmental Protection or Urban Gentrification?
In 2024, Belgrade’s mayor, Aleksandar Šapić, initiated a major regulatory purge targeting the river clubs. Citing stricter environmental standards and the need for ecological preservation, the city government ordered the removal of many floating nightclubs from their longstanding locations near the confluence of the rivers. While ecological concerns were presented as the primary motivation, some critics argue that the move is closely tied to the upscale Belgrade Waterfront development project. This controversial urban renewal initiative aims to transform the riverbanks into a luxury residential and commercial district, raising concerns that the iconic splav culture is being sacrificed for the benefit of high-end property investors.
The relocation of these venues threatens the heart of Belgrade’s nighttime economy. The confluence was an ideal location—situated near Savamala and just across the Branko Bridge from the Old Town, making it easily accessible while preserving a distinct atmosphere. Some river clubs have already shifted westward to areas like the stretch between the Gazela Bridge and Ada Ciganlija Island, where established venues such as Lasta and Kućica have long operated.
A Shift Inland: Reinventing the Nightlife Scene
In response to these sweeping changes, some clubs have taken bold steps inland. The legendary electronic music club 20/44, named after Belgrade’s geographical coordinates, has relocated to a historical building in the former creative hub of Savamala. Now occupying the old Tehno Oprema building, alongside established venues like KC Grad and Ben Akiba, the club retains its musical identity and resident DJs while adapting to a different urban setting.
This shift mirrors the broader evolution of Belgrade’s nightlife economy, with iconic venues like Drugstore, the recently opened Karmakoma, and Kult catering to electronic music enthusiasts across various city districts. However, the relocation trend raises questions about the organic and spontaneous cultural development that once defined the city. Some fear that increased commercialization is stifling the authenticity that made Belgrade’s nightlife globally unique.
An Evolving Nighttime Economy, Not a Decline
Despite the regulatory crackdown and rising property prices, Belgrade’s nightlife economy shows remarkable resilience. The city continues to attract diverse crowds with new venues, from small cocktail bars and craft breweries to larger club nights featuring international DJs. The emergence of “Little Russia”—a wave of sophisticated bars and restaurants catering to a growing Russian expatriate community following the war in Ukraine—demonstrates how Belgrade’s nightlife adapts to shifting demographics.
New creative spaces like the Silos Cultural Center and taprooms in the revitalized Port of Belgrade have also expanded the city’s nightlife options. Former industrial zones like the old BIP Brewery and areas around Dorćol and Vračar now host a mix of small bars, day parties, kafanas (traditional Serbian tavern) and cultural events, adding further layers to the city’s nighttime economy.
Balancing Development with Cultural Identity
Belgrade’s nighttime economy faces undeniable challenges, from gentrification and regulatory shifts to rising inflation and venue closures. However, it continues to evolve rather than decline. The recent wave of commercialization and urban development poses a risk to the city’s spontaneous, grassroots cultural scene, but Belgrade’s creative spirit remains.
The challenge for policymakers will be balancing environmental protection and urban renewal with the preservation of cultural heritage. If managed thoughtfully, Belgrade’s nightlife economy can continue to thrive, maintaining its dynamic energy while adapting to the changing urban landscape.
Belgrade’s nighttime economy remains alive—shifting, adapting, and proving once again why the city’s after-dark culture is a key part of the city’s identity.
Featured image, photo credits Mali Iv .
Writer. Blogger. Traveler. Researcher. Electronic Music Lover.
